LEARNING Curves

ONCE UPON A time, in a fashion industry not-so-far away, wafer-thin models became the norm. “Heroin chic” inched its way into the cultural lexicon and Hollywood’s red carpet grew lousy with actresses the approximate width of a coat hanger.

Women knew they had waists. Curves, too. But clothes that accentuated—or even acknowledged—these shapes did not exist.

In an equally nonsensical dimension, promotional apparel cornered the market on the opposite end of the spectrum: the shapeless, one-size-fits-all garment. Despite the fact that “one size” fit no one particularly well, it became standard fare. And women’s curves were thwarted again.

Yet, in 2008, hope springs eternal.

Though the world of high fashion probably won’t budge on its sizing “ideals” anytime soon, the promotional apparel industry is starting to get the message. As the next step in the uphill battle to create imprinted wearables people will actually wear, suppliers have been adding new designs to their repertoires—and the female form is reaping the benefits.

WIN THE POPULARITY CONTEST

“For 94 percent of women, fit is the most important factor in choosing their clothing,” said Krista Newman-Huckabee, assistant marketing manager at Hanesbrands of Winston Salem, N.C. Though historically, promotional apparel suppliers had simply crafted companion pieces from menswear items, it’s clear the lack of design sensitivity has been affecting end-user satisfaction. “Gone are the days when women want to wear a man’s shirt in a smaller size,” Taraynn Lloyd, marketing director for Kalamazoo, Michigan-based Edwards Garment, contributed.

To address these needs, industry suppliers in growing numbers have been adding new collections, overhauling old ones and providing new options for existing styles.

Edwards Garment, for one, recently underwent a major redesign of its pants selection (see sidebar) to great success. By addressing both distributor and end-user needs for better-cut women’s garments, every party in the equation ends up a satisfied customer. “Distributors who had stopped promoting Edwards’ women’s pants are now offering them again. The end-user likes the way they fit and we are finding that our sales have increased,” Lloyd said.

Similarly, Hanesbrands is doing particularly well with its Hanes’ Silver for Her and other women’s collections, which are composed of three distinct fit categories: fitted, classic and relaxed. “It has been a huge hit to offer different fits for the different preferences of women,” Newman-Huckabee affirmed.

THE CHOICE OF A GENERATION

One possible explanation for the recent sea change could be the growth and popularity of other specialty sizing, including the prevalence of junior lines. Though the younger collections appealed to the desire for fashion-forward promotional apparel (i.e. trendy styles, fitted silhouettes), it soon became clear options for mature female end-users paled by comparison.

“Our marketplace has really paid attention to the juniors and fitted apparel [markets] in recent years,” Newman-Huckabee maintained. “But this is actually only 25 percent of the total women’s market,” she went on. By creating complementary collections for female end-users in a wider age range, suppliers have capitalized on the demand for fashion pieces and better sizing.

According to Dean Vuong, vice president of Kavio!, Commerce, Calif., the addition of the new line Kavio! Women was a strategic move in that vein. The company increased its available sizing, and is now able to offer trendier, slimmer silhouettes for women 25 to 45 years old.

For the distributor looking to find the right balance within such a broad spectrum of ages and sizes, Newman-Huckabee broke it down: “If the audience is younger, you might want to purchase more fitted products. As the audience ages, you would change to more classic or relaxed apparel.”

And women everywhere will dress happily ever after.

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